ORC Masters in Mexico City

Day 8

January 30, 2010

Saturday morning provided the rowing experience of certain lifetimes.
Equipped with the somewhat concerned advice of Coach Oswaldo about checking
every 5-7 strokes for obstacles and traffic, we set off in an eight, with
Roberta in bow, Marcela in stroke, Sofia in the cox seat, and one of our
trajinera guys in a launch as a guide.

We set off into the Mayan canal system of Xochimilco, sharing the waterways
with farmers in flat-bottomed punts, kids in canoes, and an old couple
heading to market with a boatload of cut flowers. Once we left the canal
that had been the main club course until 1967, we were deep in an
agricultural area with surprised cows, goats, dogs, chickens and farmers
observing our passage. Our guide waked us severely enough to cause some
concern that the dark brown fragrant water was coming from under us, not
above. We really didn't want to sink. As we turned around to head back from
our tour, our guide suggested we explore one last channel, so stern four
backed us in to see the local 'haunted house,' surrounded with hundreds of
dolls and doll parts suspended from trees.

Altogether we rowed the canals for about ninety minutes, much of it in
fours and pairs to deal with the extremely tight clearances. Roberta has
definitely earned the coxing-from-the-bow award.

After a breakfast of a torta (hot sandwich of chorizo, cheese, avocado,
tomatoes), we set off for our last major expedition. Loading the van with
all seven of us, Marcella, Sofia, Mrs Tendilla and Mike, we climbed and
climbed out of Xochimilco into the volcanic peaks of Tlayacapan where Mike
provided yet another expert tour of the 16th century Augustinian convent.
We piled in again for the '20-minute' drive to a favourite restaurant of
Mike's. Ninety minutes later (after joining a funeral procession), we
arrived in the restaurant where, once again, we took the advice of our
resident experts and dined outdoors in the shadow of the volcano. Finally
piled back into the van for the ride back to the club, arriving just before
midnight by the light of the full moon, ending another extraordinary day in
a most extraordinary trip.

Day 7

January 29, 2010

This was was to be an “easy” day. We started out with our usual row, with
the women's quad going for a 12k spin and the boys in a double for 8,
thinking we might go for a second row.

Everybody was tired. Lana and Sophie decided they would rather hang out by
the pool and take a couple of singles later. From what we heard, a new
tequila recipe was born along the way. Meanwhile, the rest of the gang had
some down time before heading off to the city again. This time our
destination was Cocoyacan, the area where Marcela lives.

We started with a shopping trip to a craft cooperative, then while some of the group attempedto do some banking, Martin, Peter, Roberta and Sophia headed to a veryspecial coffee shop. Lots of traffic in between, of course. We were treated
like royalty at the café after we told them we were from Canada. This was
before we realized that the owner (who came over with a tray full of
recommended sweat breads, special coffee and a tour of the kitchen) had
rowed for 30 years at Club Espagna and knew Horacio, Chapparo and greeted
Manuel with a big hug! Marcela did not know this, so it was another crazy
case of a very small world. The rest of the gang had joined us, and much
merriment and of course much eating ensued.

From there, we went to the lovely central square in Coyacan, where we
descended on a sweet shop that had been there for 100 years, where Sofia,
the proverbial kid in a candy shop, advised us on how delicious each treat
was. Then to another church, where just as Marcela was explaining that this
was where her mother (and Horacio's) was married, we realized that another
wedding was taking place. Next to a semi-enclosed food market where, with
Marcela ordering, we tried everything from corn served in a cup with
cheese, mayonaise, lime and chili called escite, to quesadillas with brain,
stomach and corn fungus. Surprisingly delicious. And for dessert (not that
we needed it), a crepe made containing Roberta's portrait.

So this “little” trip to town had us back at the club around 11:30. another
great outing.

Day 6

January 28, 2010

Weather: mid-twenties, overcast in patches, water flat

The day started with another wonderful row with Marcella -- Womens 4X, 1X and men in 2X. Other than a small case of rushing the slide, we almost looked like locals. We agree that we feel less of the effects of altitude. The course was busy. We wonder how so many youth and adults are able to row mid-morning. Evidently, the teens row as part of their school phys. ed programming. Now that´s a high school rowing program.

Trip of the day involved no van transport into the city -- but a walk out of the Club Espana gates into Xochimilco. Xochimilco is a ´town´´ of one million people considered a neighbourhood of Mexico City. The buildings (combinations of homes and businesses) are all side by side with entries at the edge of the street. Narrow alleys link streets and create a labrynth. The streets themselves are crowded with (surprisingly) cars, bicycle taxis, and street vendors.

Sophie was gobsmacked by the `pollaterias` -- shops selling chicken meat -- because the counter spaces were filled with uncooked chicken carcasses with no apparent refrigeration. We promise not to report this to CFIA. We visited the marketplace which was filled with vendors that each specialized: flowers, clothing, underwear, baby stuff, shoes, candies, fruits, things for cleaning the kitchen, ...... We were glad to have both Chapparro and Manuel as guides because we would not have found our way out. Highlights included tasting (and buying) molle, and chili spices. We picked up some Mexican fruits and pastries for the cook at Club Espana to prepare for us.

Manuel, our driver, lives in Xochimilco just outside the club gates -- he has an erg on his deck (good training for a former Henley winner). He proudly toured us through the stunningly gorgeous grounds of the convent and through the local churches. (90% of Mexico is Catholic, so each block of homes has its own parish church.) We learned about the 400 year old tradition which begins on February 2 annually. A doll representing the infant Jesus is placed into the care of a family until December 24. (The wait list to be the host family is 40 years.) Each day, baby Jesus goes with the family to morning mass, then goes to visit a neighouring family for the day. The receiving family provides the infant doll with new clothing, and prepares food and drink for all who come to celebrate this honour with them -- some 1000-1500 people! The baby infant is never allowed to be without the accompaniment of the host family and must be returned home before sundown. This custom is extremely important to the people of Xochimilco and is not replicated in other communities.

After dinner we set out for Salsa Dancing. If you have been following this blog you know that we get up early, go to bed late, pack our days with rowing and excursions -- and eat alot. We were tired. We picked up Marcella at her home in the Cocoyan district and went to a restaurant in Saint Angel instead. Saint Angel is home of the automonous university with some 300,000 students. Tequila, of course, but also local food such as cactus (taste like asparagus) completed the night.

Back to Club Espana at 11 pm -- no traffic (two days in a row).

Day 5

January 27, 2010

Weather: Marvelous (another form of perfect); high 20s; water flat

The Mexican National Rowing team trains at Club Espana. Yesterday the course was closed for the men and women to do 6k time trials. We watched, gobsmacked, as they ripped up the course, including a hair-pin turn at each end of the 2000m course. Blade work is beautiful: never miss water, never touch on the recovery, clean extractions. There is also a noticeable style difference between the Mexican crews and what we are used to seeing in Canada. Primarily, they seem to use a bigger layback. We tried to cheer them on -- over the sound of their coaches screaming from bikes as they followed along the course -- but did not have the proper vocabulary.

One rowing tip we picked up from the Mexican team coaches is (roughly translated) `Don´t row like a Castor!¨` The coach was refering to the use of the blade like a beaver´s tail.

Trip of the day brought us downtown again. The first stop was the studio of Mike (Migual) Gomez. Mike is Horacio´s friend from rowing days. He represented Mexico at the Sydney Olympics but now concentrates on photography, and etchings. He focuses on landscape photography, following his father and grandfather in the tradition of being an artist. Wouldn´t Canadian artists enjoy such a lifestyle? On the wall of his studio is the original lease from 1784 signed by his grandfather. (Long term leases are the norm in Mexico.) Mike is preparing for a solo exhibition in a Mexican Museum and will spend several months in Banff as the artist in residence.

We visited the Palacio Nationale (house of the federal government) to see the murals by Diego Rivera. These tell the history of Mexico and are are worth googling.

Lunch was arranged to give us a taste of real Mexican food. Le Cardenal, was very upscale, busy with the professional lunch crowd. We started with escamoles (ant´s eggs -- very delicious) then plate after plate of delicious food: fish, pork, salsas, stuffed peppers. Each dish was delicious. We rolled out to look for a place to drink Tequila.

To allow us to survive this pace, we stopped at the Musio des Belles Artes for a half hour of shopping. Our group photo was taken just outside -- now we all own a òriginal Gomez!

The Opera Bar where we stopped to sample several brands of Tequila is famous for the bullet hole in the ceiling made by Pancho Villa.

In the evening, we attend the Ballet Folklorico. It was several hours of traditional Mexican dancing ranging from pre-hispanic to flaminco with a heavy Spanish influence. We were joined by Marcella, Sofia (who caught several kilos worth of streamers thrown during the finale), Horacio & Marcella´s mother and Manuel our driver.

Back home to Club Espana at 11pm -- no traffic!

Day 4

January 26, 2010

Weather: better than perfect with warm evening; water flat

Two rows in before lunch, sending out a 4x and 2x. Pedro ran because he
doesnt like one arm sculling. Lots of boats on the course during first row
-- clearly people here would rather row than go to the office -- a custom we
should import. Rowing improving both with skill and endurance.

Trip of the day to Museo Antropoplogia. Amazing to see the relics from the
pyramids (yesterday), as well as Azrtecs and Mayans. Saw the most amazing
crosstraining -- the Voladores hang upside down (tied from the waist) as the
spin around a Maypole at a height of 25m. Oh yes, they play instrustments
while they do this.

This site caused us to need a drink so we headed off to a Wine Tasting at
the Horacio's former wine shop. Mexican reds and whites paired with with
foods -- delicious. Muchus Gracias Horacio and Marcella.

Leaving for Club Espana at 11 pm -- traffic, go figure.

Day 3

January 25, 2010

Location(s): Pista Olympico, Teotihuacan, restaurant in a cave

Weather: still perfect -- water still without ripple

On a scale of 1-10, Day 3 was 11! Excellent row in the morning, joined by Marcella Tendillo -- Horacio´s sister who lives in Mexico City. Former (multiple) Henley winner so no rowing slouch.

Trip for the day to the pyramids at Teotihuacan. These pyramids (of the Sun and Moon) are set in a mountain ringed offshoot of the Valle of Mexico. The pyramids and surrounding city were built around AD150-250, with the civilization active until AD600. The Pyramid of the Sun is the 3rd largest in the world. Masters can attest to the fact that there are 268 steps -- straight up. Those who understand geography swear that you cannot fall all the way to the bottom if the angle going up is less than 45 degrees. However, these same persons were not willing to test this fact.

While Teotihuacan rightly earns its place as as UNESCO World Heritage Site, its splendor was enhanced by our guide (and Horació`s friend) Mike. We were also accompanied by Marcella, her daughter Sofia (who skipped school to come) and Emiliano (our driver´s grandson who had a PD Day.)

Following the pyramids we settled for some snacks and drinks -- in a cave. Yes, La Grupta restaurant is in a (huge) cavern in the ground. Wild! Mike and Marcella ordered for us. Food was terrific, but the Tequila and sangrita (chaser) was exceptional. Tequilla is much like Scotch -- to be sipped and enjoyed. Evidently, only poor quality Tequilla is taken as a shooter. Sofia lost her tooth at the meal -- and will await the visit by the `Tooth Mouse´` tonight.

Sofia was put in charge of tallying our bill at the restaurant. In spite of attending a school where she excells in music and horseback riding (they have 32 horse in her downtown school -- one died), Sofia is a math wiz. The waiter tipped HER for calculating the tab. Gracias Mike, Marcella and Sofia for a marvelous day!

Three hours in traffic -- and back to Club Espana for dinner.

Day 2

January 24, 2010

Location: Pista Olympico, Xochimilco (Mexico City)

Weather: mid-high 20s, sunny (perfect again) 26 degress, water like glass

First row at 10am in the Pista Olympico -- 4+ and 2X. Busy course -- including waterfowl, cattle and rowers of all ages and abilities. No coach boat wake -- no coach boats on the water. Coaches follow the rowers by bike along side the course (ala Montreal).

``Heads Up` translate better as``Cuidado!``. Some rowers have forgotten more about rowing than they remembered. Evidently rowing improves with giant meals before and afterwards.

Met Marcella -- Horacio´s sister -- and the President of Club Espana.

Marcella toured us through the city by bus and on foot in the afternoon. Our ´little family of Masters´ was out with thousands of Mexican families who traditionally spend Sundays in Boque de Chapelcuapec (the park). Followed by a civilized round of Margaritas at the Four Seasons Hotel (got to watch those ice cubes) got out ready for the bus ride home.

Off to dinner. Tomorrow rowing at 8am followed by trip to pyramids.

Blister count: one each for 5 of 7 rowers.

Day 1

January 23, 2010

Location: Pista Olympico, Xochimilco (Mexico City)

Weather: (perfect) 26 degress, sunny, water like glass

Seven ORC Masters rowers have arrived in Mexico City for a week long rowing camp at Club Espana. The rowing camp was arranged by ORC Masters rower Horacio Tendilla -- former Mexican national rowing team and Club Espana member.

Maureen, Martin and Marc-Andre left Ottawa in the cold and dark and after a smooth flight were met at the airport by Manuel for the hour long drive to Club Espana. The club is located in the world´s largest city with a population of 29 million people. Mexico City is at an altitude of 7000 feet. Peter and Lana had already spent a couple of days in the city and met them at the club.

Club Espana is a country club located on a private island. The island is surrounded by the Olympic rowing venue (1968 games) and the canal system developed by the Aztecs in the 1300s. The club manager ´´Chaparro´¨ was the perfect host touring us around the facilities including: a well equipped boathouse, rowing tank, gym, steam rooms, dormitories and restaurant. Oh yes, there is also an Olympic sized pool and hotub, plus soccer pitches, tennis courts...and the flatest water you can imagine.

We are off for dinner and await the arrival of Roberta and Sophie. (Wait until they discover that you have to take a rope-tow barge across the channel to arrive.)

Tomorrow first row at 10am.